Paris, je t'aime!

We visited Paris in December 2016 just before Christmas. We combined it with Prague for a total of 8 days and it was truly magical! We loved going to Europe over the winter and everything was so festive and cozy. It was a very different feel from my previous visits which was in the Spring. We had a great time and can't wait to go back for another winter wonderland experience! I hope you love visiting this City of Lights! 

view of Paris from the Notre Dame, one of my all time favourite shots

Bonjour! On Arrival

• Charles de Gaulle (CDG) is a HUGE airport. And it's quite far from the city center. Best way to get into the city is by taking the RER (regional train) to the closest train station that also has a metro line to get you to your hotel. RER B runs from CDG to a couple of large stations in the city and from there you can transit to the metro. Travel time is probably just under an hour depending on where your final destination is.

• buy the tickets at the CDG station, they have machines right there, English is an option and they are pretty self-explanatory. Should cost around €10

• alternatively you can probably catch a cab or an Uber from CDG and into the city. Timing might be faster, but that depends on the traffic. Probably still about 30 minutes or more to get into the city. But will definitely cost you a lot more than public transportation.

How to Get Around

• Metro is the way to go. Buy a carnet of 10 tickets. Each ticket will take you on a single journey for as many stops or line switches as you want. But KEEP your tickets on you. the RATP can stop you at any time and ask you for a ticket and charge you 60 euros on the spot if you don't have it.

• the metro system is actually really robust and well organized. the stops aren't too far from each other, so you're sure to be near one no matter where you are or what you are doing. especially in the city center where I imagine you'll spend the bulk of your time.

• download this app called "Paris Metro Map - departures and route planner" before you go, it's a free app. it has a green train icon. the map is available off line too if you are out and does not have wifi. but it's a good app to route out which metro stops can get you to where you need to go etc.

• Paris is a big city, but lots to do with things sort of close to each other, you can often walk from one spot to another, and at the end of the day, take the metro back to your hotel. 

Where to Stay - every neighborhood is different. Paris is divided into neighborhoods that are called "arrondisement." There are 20 total. The general idea is that it starts counting in the middle of the city, and radially, clockwise, spins in a circle outwards. 

Eiffel Tower from Arc de Triomphe at night

I would recommend staying in the following areas. (Also would splurge for a room with a view, a bigger room << cannot stress this, or a hotel close to a metro stop.)

• Saint-Germain-Des-Pres (6th, left bank): this is where we recently stayed. it's a very chic and trendy area. lots of shops and restaurants around. easy to walk around and you can really get the Parisian experience. We stayed at a boutique place called Hotel Madison, right by the Saint Germain metro stop (line 4). 

• Latin Quarter (5th, left bank): right next to Saint Germain, it's the next neighborhood over. the Sorbonne (France's oldest university) is near here. Trendy. similar to Saint Germain, but more markets and students.

• Le Marais (4th, right bank): very trendy, lots of shopping and boutiques. it's just a very charming area. It's fun to walk around here and get lost.

• Champs Elysee (1st, right bank): the name gives it away. it's right in the center, where all the ritz and glitz is. Staying near here will probably be more costly, as it's busy and touristy, but if you love the lights and action, plenty to see near here. Arc de triomphe is a quick walk, as is the Louvre, in the other direction. Lots of metro stops along the main street and connections to all directions.

What to Do 

This really depends on what you are all interested in, I would recommend the Paris Museum Pass. VERY useful and it pays for itself depending on how many places on the pass you visit. They have two, four, or six day passes I believe. But honestly, I think it's a GREAT deal. A LOT of places are included on this pass, you don't have to stand in line for places when you get there, and you can go as many times as you want with this pass! You can buy the pass from visitor centers, the Louvre, Sainte-Chapelle, and most places on the pass I believe. 

• Notre Dame (Cite metro stop) - this world famous cathedral needs no introduction. Going into the church is free for all. However, with this pass, you can get to the top (after a million steps) for a WONDERFUL view of Paris. This is one of my favourite things to do. Highly recommended!

in front of the Notre Dame in the afternoon sun

• Sainte-Chapelle (Cite) - people often forget about Sainte-Chapelle when they only remember the Notre Dame. On the same island as Notre Dame, it's a much smaller church, but the stained glass inside is TRULY incredible. Would recommend going in the morning, when the sunlight is shining through the glasses of the church.

• Arc de Triomphe (Charles de Gaulle Etoile) - again, the iconic structure probably needs no introduction. The pass lets you in and climb to the top. Again, a really great view. You can see the Eiffel tower well, and all the way down the Champs Elysee. Views are different during the day, and night. Go twice if you have the time!

• Louvre (Louvre) - the most famous, HUGE HUGE museum. But if you're visiting Paris, this is a must (First Sunday of the month is free admissions to a lot of museums, but I think you'll miss that with your dates). Lots of photo ops in front of the Louvre with its famous pyramids. Once you are inside, start in the Denon wing and head to Venus de Milo. Then make your way upstairs towards the Mona Lisa. It will be crowded. There will be lots of selfie sticks. You can spend days in here and still not see everything. Do what you can. It's overwhelming. 

the famous Venus de Milo (we later learned it was discovered on the Greek island of Milos!)

• Musee d'Orsay (Musee d'Orsay) - MUCH less overwhelming than the Louvre. A good alternative and converted from an old train station. Walking distance from the Louvre across the river. Good selection of Impressionists, like Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas, etc (and Van Gogh) in this museum if you are interested. Very cool place. Huge clocks on the top floor that look out to Paris. Check those out. One of my favourites.

• Musee de l'Orangerie (Concorde) - Perhaps this one is my MOST loved. Down the main stretch from the Louvre if you are walking towards the Arc de Triomphe. You will pass the Jardin de Tuileries - formal gardens, lots of chairs and greenery. People lounge here. have lunch. read. feed the pigeons etc. Two large oval fountains with green lounge chairs all around. Quite beautiful. Walk through here. As you approach the Concorde, to your left is the Musee d'Orangerie. It's a much smaller place. All the Monet water lilies collection is here. When we were there, an American (1930s) exhibit was there, including American Gothic. it was cool to see and quite popular with the French, they were lining out the door to see it, as it was the first time to be exhibited in Europe! Anyways, a cool place to check out if you love Monet (as I do).

all the Monet

• Eiffel Tower (Champ de Mars/Tour Eiffel) - NOT on the pass. But obviously you must go. The lines to go up the tower will be VERY LONG. The best way to get up there is to arrange a tour, OR, to have a reservation at one of the restaurants in the tower. Good luck.

• Trocadero (Trocadero stop) - the best place to actually look at the Eiffel tower. Large plaza with lots of hagglers who will try to sell you miniature Eiffels. But it's the perfect distance away for those photo ops. The tower sparkles EVERY night on the hour for about 3 minutes once its dark. This is the best place to see that happen. Time your visit for the sparkles.

• Sacre-Coeur (Abbesses or Anvers) - NOT on the pass. the tallest point in the city. if not cloudy or smoggy - offers a wonderful view of the city. A bit farther away from the above mentioned landmarks, but worth a visit. Once you get off the metro stop, you can make your way there either by walking up the steps (quite demanding), or taking the funicular. The church is again, quite beautiful. You do have to pay extra to get to the top, and I have not done this, but people say that's the best view of Paris at sunset.

• Monmatre (Pigalle) - the cutest neighborhood right by the Sacre-Coeur. on top of the hill just next to the cathedral, lots of shops and restaurants. Some people recommend staying in this neighborhood, but I think it's a bit out of the way from the center city stuff. Moulin Rouge is near here!

• Catacombs (Denfert-Rochereau) - NOT on the pass. bones. lots of bones. underground crypts with lots of bones. really cool actually. lines can be long. So beware.

• Galleries Lafeyette (Chausee d'Antin La Fayette, though lots of stops nearby) - large shopping mall in a VERY busy part of the city. Lots of other shopping malls nearby. might not be as big of a deal when you go, but during the holidays, they have a HUGE Christmas tree in the middle and it's crowded. I'm listing it for you so you can go check it out if you please, but on the top floor, there is a terrace with once again, views. Paris is all about the views!

• A walk down Champs Elysee (mainly line 1, lots of stops) - the 5th Avenue of Paris. But better. lots of fancy shops and lights. It's full of tourists, but hey, after all that is what we are! You should at least stroll down this street once. Just to see what all the fuss is about. Don't eat at the restaurants here. Overpriced.

Where to Eat

Good food is everywhere! We never had bad food in Paris. Even for breakfast when we are just grabbing cafes and croissants from little bakeries.  

There are so many restaurants, from hole in the wall, to fancy schmancy. These are just a couple of places that stood out near us. 

There are fast chains such as Paul, or Pret a Manger, around every corner.  With that being said - if you are near these places, check them out!

grabbing a quick bite at a cafe

• Le Petit Chatelet ($$$) - on the same island as Notre Dame near the Cite stop, quaint, romantic. would be perfect for a nice dinner. 

• L'Avant Comptoir ($$)- a gem in the middle of Saint Germain. it's a TINY tapas place with NO tables. Standing at the bar only. We got glasses of wine and then ordered tapas like items from their diverse menu (charcuterie, pork bellies, salads, etc) which are just pictures of items hanging from the ceiling. SUPER delicious. A great place for a snack or dinner. Bc you will fill up. Next door is the exact same thing, but for seafood. highly recommended.

• Laduree ($$$)- famous and the BEST macarons. it's a chain, and all over Paris. There's one on Champs Elysee, and one in Saint Germain. But so fresh and delicious. this sounds weird, but I recommend the rose flavor. You can mix and match different ones. get 6 in a box for about 18 Euros. Keep the box - it's cute. 

surprisingly, the rose flavor was my fave!

General Tips

• learn some simple phrases, many people speak English, but they do like it if you try. Bonjour, bon soir, bon nuit, merci, pardon, etc

• tipping is expected, and many times service charges are included. but tip around 10-15% is plenty. not like the US at all.

• dinner is usually quite late. things really pick up probably after 8pm. Don't be weird and eat at an ungodly early hour like 6pm. You will be the only ones in the restaurant. With that  being said, a lot of places don't even open until 7 for dinner. many places close between lunch and dinner.

one of our plates from L'avant Comptoir

Leaving, au revoir!

I have the same recommendations as when you arrive. I would take the metro/RER back to CDG. If you are lucky, you can catch an express RER that doesn't make any small stops along the way and take you directly to CDG! So much faster. Have PLENTY of time the day you leave to get to your gate. The commute to CDG can take up to 1.5 hours. Once you arrive, there can be LONG lines at check-in, immigration, security, or all of the above. Leave with PLENTY of time to spare. Hope you have a great time in Paris!! 

Eiffel Tower from Trocadero