Arts & Wine, Tuscany is Fine!
We came here in September 2017 for a good friend's wedding and we loved every moment! Visiting this beautiful wine region and spending some time in Florence is a perfect weeklong vacation but of course, if you have more time to spend here and explore the region, do it! Ciao!
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| welcome to Tuscany! |
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| one of our favourite weddings! |
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| talk about setting the scene! |
Italian drivers are a bit crazy. The roads are narrower. But it's really not as crazy as it seemed. We actually loved it. Most of the small roads through the country side are one lane each way. We never had an issue with other drivers. It was easy to rent a car at the airport. We used GPS on our phones. The roads were pretty clearly marked. We never got lost.
You do need an "international driving permit". No one ever asked us for it, but I didn't want to be caught without it, just in case. $20, local AAA and a passport photo. Easy.
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| our lovely rental: Giuseppe! |
Small Towns in Tuscany
Keep in mind, we had a home base at the castle and every night we had to end up there. Many others changed where they stayed each night by driving there that day. We did not do this.
1. Chianti - this is actually a region. The chianti wines are from this area. Lots of small towns in this area named "XXX in Chianti", aka a small town in that region. Beautiful countryside. Lots of wineries. We stopped often on the side of the road just to take photos of vineyards, the rolling hills, the sunsets, etc. Had some tastings, and just generally enjoyed driving around. If you get the chance, make sure to eat at Antica Macelleria - Located in Panzano in Chianti. It is a famous butcher shop/restaurant. Anthony Bourdain has been here and raves about it. Would recommend making a reservation ahead of time. They have a couple of different menus/options. We had the Officina dinner option. 50€, 8 course steak dinner. It was simply DELICIOUS. Family seating style, you end up next to people from all over the world. The meat is cooked right in front of you, seasoned with olive oil and their special salt. From steak tartare to all different cuts, to olive oil cake, and all you can drink wine! We sat next to this couple where the husband was Swiss Italian, the wife was Spanish, and they were vacationing in Tuscany. On the other side of us was a couple from Ireland exploring Italy for their first time. My point is - great meal to share with old and new friends!
2. San Gimignano - one of the pretty iconic and oft visited hill top towns in Tuscany. Fairly touristy. Will have to park somewhat of a walk away from the city walls and walk up to the town. Center square, like most of these towns, lots of shops and restaurants. Would recommend climbing up to the bell tower to get an amazing panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. In the main square, there's also a world famous gelato shop, Gelateria Dondoli. Check it out!
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| one of our favourite candids from atop the bell tower |
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| views for days! classic Tuscan hills surrounding San Gimingano |
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| our treats from the world famous gelato shop: Gelateria Dondoli |
3. Volterra - another hill top town. smaller. less busy. we went bc we had the time and wanted to keep driving. like most Italian towns, central plaza, several churches, panoramic views of the surrounding land. It was cute but nothing super iconic. stayed for about an hour or two and kept on driving.
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| rolling hills everywhere you look |
Other towns to consider if driving -
Bc we had a home base, we didn't want to venture out too far and drive back to our castle the same day, so we didn't get to some of the more south towns but people also suggested the following: Siena, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Pienza, etc
Florence
After several days in the countryside, we dropped off our rental car at the Florence airport, and made our way to our new hotel in the city of Florence.
I cannot say enough good things about this city. I've been here a couple of times now, I think it is severely underrated, so much history, culture, arts, wine, good food, good shopping. I absolutely love this city. I wish I had studied abroad here when I was younger.
Where to Stay
An amazing boutique hotel in the city center. (Not in the dead center where are the tourists are, only about a 10-15 minute walk from the Duomo, and 5 more to Palazzo Vecchio, but that walk never felt far bc there's so much going on along the way. Shops, restaurants, markets!)
Really nice clean rooms, reasonably priced. Best part? Great breakfast spread. There's a pool/spa/sauna/steam room. A little courtyard for you to rest in the afternoon sun. They host an afternoon tea out there every day. And the staff are the nicest people ever. They will go out of their way to accommodate your needs. They pack you breakfast bags if you cannot stay and partake in the buffet. They call taxis for you. Everything. You will not regret staying here.
What to See
As you know, the city is full of renaissance history and art. These are the few museums that I personally love and think are worth your time. Would get tickets (or even a guided tour) ahead of time.
Uffizi Gallery - lots of Renaissance classics, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Birth of Venus, etc. We did a guided tour, and our guide was super knowledgeable and told us a lot of things about the pieces that I don't think we would have otherwise gleaned from just walking around.
Galleria dell'Accademia - David is in here. Truly larger than life. Try to early in the morning right when they open, not crowded yet and you can get up close and personal with this amazing statue.
The Duomo - would recommend a walk around, a tour, and a climb to the top! Worth the claustrophobic climb and crowds. Great panorama of Florence from above.
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sun setting on the Duomo |
Ponte Vecchio - most famous bridge in Florence, needs no introduction, follow the crowds to the bridge
Palazzo Vecchio - the city center, large plaza, many museums located off of this square, restaurants, people watching (food here $$$, go off the square)
Piazzale Michelangelo - across the river from the above, beautiful sunset with Florence/Duomo/Towers in the background. Every postcard of Florence is taken from this spot.
Where to Eat
Some of these were recommended to us. Some we stumbled upon. One thing I will say - we ate gelato. Every day. Sometimes 2-3x a day. No regrets.
Mercato Centrale - near the hotel, awesome market on the first floor, upstairs is multiple restaurants and central eating area, lots of locals go here, really fun way to try different foods and restaurants in one setting
Trattoria ZaZa - near the hotel, on the way between our hotel and the Duomo, near the Mercato Centrale, by the Chapel Medici. The area and restaurant is crowded, somewhat touristy, but delicious. Make a reservation earlier in the day as you walk by for dinner later in the day, or you'll be standing in line with the others!
Il Santo Bevitore - across the river, lovely and romantic ambiance, classy, good wine selection
All'Antico Vinaio - near Palazzo Vecchio, amazing sandwich shop, huge sandwich, meat filled, very flavorful, follow the crowds, no seats, eat on the curb!
Grom Gelato - a chain! Also found in NYC, Tokyo, etc. But super tasty! Just a few blocks from the Duomo. You probably won't stumble upon this if not looking for it, off one of the side streets.
Gelateria La Carraia - just around the corner from Il Santo Bevitore, really cheap and delicious gelato. A local favourite.
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| gelato a day, keeps the doctor away! |
Side Bar -
If you have the time, take a trip to the nearby Cinque Terre! These are the 5 picturesque and coastal towns in the Liguria region just about a 2 hour drive from Florence. We did a day trip here and were able to experience all 5 towns! The towns in order from north to south are - Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. There's a train that goes between the towns and there are also hiking trails. Though some times the trails are closed due to various reasons and are not as reliable. We traveled from one to another via all different ways, including taking the train between the villages, hiking from Corniglia into Vernazza, and also taking a boat from Monterosso all the way back to Riomaggiore. Each village was beautiful in their own way. I hope you get the chance to go check them out! Ciao!!
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| scenes from Monterosso al Mare |
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| Vernazza coming into view as you hike in from Corniglia |
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| scenes from Vernazza |
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| sunset in Riomaggiore |
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